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Italy

‘The Biggest Bluff in Europe’ – And His Train Station

December 13, 2010
‘The Biggest Bluff in Europe’ – And His Train Station

The old Red Cross hospital sits amid Milan’s busy center, a district of fashionable shops and banks, the two hearts of modern Milan, where motor scooters and yellow trolleys wrestle their way through streets crowded with businessmen and women jabbering on cell phones and shoppers toting bags and oversized purses. When Hemingway was here,...
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War Opens Hemingway’s Mind – and Heart

December 6, 2010
War Opens Hemingway’s Mind – and Heart

Hemingway first came to Milan by slow train from the Treviso field hospital. The 180-mile journey took two full days. It passed through storied cities like Verona and Padua, places Hemingway knew only from Shakespeare. He dulled the pain in his leg, and probably the nightmares, with cognac. He was headed for surgery at...
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A New Age and 227 Devils

November 2, 2010
A New Age and 227 Devils

I followed the Piave into a grove of locust trees and into a field, where green grapes were just beginning to ripen on the vineyard rows. Not a trench, not an embankment, remained from the war. Across the field, I could see the bell tower of the church in town, raised in honor of...
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Another Way to War

November 1, 2010
Another Way to War

As hard as it was for me to believe I was here, exactly 92 years later, it was even harder for Hemingway to believe he was there back in his time. Here he was, an 18-old-boy from Oak Park, Ill., barely a year out of high school, bunkered with Italian troops, mostly poor men...
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The Boy of the Piave

October 29, 2010
The Boy of the Piave

Vivaldi’s Four Seasons was playing on the CD player. L’Estate, Summer, was playing as we drove into the Veneto north of Venice, and as if on cue the rain began to fall as the musical storm arrived. Drops struck the windshield as the violins climbed to a crescendo. “Are you sure you can find...
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Hemingway’s Garden of Eden Bears Fruit

October 25, 2010
Hemingway’s Garden of Eden Bears Fruit

Add one more Hemingway movie coming to the screen, beating all the others. The production company Roadside Attractions, which brought us The Cove and Supersize Me, among others, has acquired the rights to Hemingway’s Garden of Eden. The film has already been out in Great Britain, and stars Mena Suvari, Jack Huston, Caterina Murino, Richard...
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