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Spain

Running with the Bulls

July 9, 2010
Running with the Bulls

The bulls from the Cebada Gago ranch in the southern Spanish province of Cadiz have a nasty reputation in Pamplona, which is saying a lot. Of all the bulls that take to the streets each year in the Sanfermines running of the bulls, the brutes from Cebada Gago are known for goring the runners...
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La Matadora

July 3, 2010
La Matadora

“The important thing is that you never lose sight of the bull’s face,” says Maripaz Vega. “Never.” Vega is a phenomenon that couldn’t have existed throughout most of the Spain that Ernest Hemingway knew. She is Spain’s only woman bullfighter. During Franco’s dictatorship, women were banned from attending a bullfight, to say nothing of...
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Driving through Basque Country

June 14, 2010
Driving through Basque Country

We drive across the Pyrenees through the Basque Country, from Biarritz, on the French side, to Pamplona, on the Spanish side, passing through scattered villages of ancient farmhouses made of stone that look like they were carved out of the mountains themselves. Low clouds hang in the mountains and their air smells moist and...
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Why I’m Stalking Hemingway

November 11, 2009
Why I’m Stalking Hemingway

Why am I in Idaho stalking the ghost of Ernest Hemingway? I’m asking myself the same question. I don’t hunt. I don’t fish. I don’t even bullfight. We’re hardly kindred souls, manly man Hemingway and scrawny man me. I’ve found myself drawn to him, though, through place.
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