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Travels

‘A Pilgrimage to the Hemingway Myth’

September 13, 2010
‘A Pilgrimage to the Hemingway Myth’

Author Eddy Harris isn’t well-known in America, where he was born, but he’s established a following in France, the country he calls home. He is the author of Mississippi Solo, his chronicle of canoeing down the Mississippi River, and Paris en Black et Noir, a memoir of life as a black American writer living...
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‘This is the Real Lost Generation’

September 8, 2010
‘This is the Real Lost Generation’

Simon Njami is an author, essayist and art curator living in Paris. With roots in Cameroon, he has watched the struggles of immigrants from West Africa and North Africa adapt to life in Paris. I talked to him about this new “Lost Generation,” the riots that ignited across France and the future of French...
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Blood in the Seine

August 6, 2010
Blood in the Seine

Suddenly immigration became a question of national identity. Can you be black, or Arab, or Muslim, and still be French?
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Nono’s Paris

August 4, 2010
Nono’s Paris

Hemingway’s Paris is for sale on the banks of the Seine, where the boukanistes sell vintage-looking Cinzano advertisements and Josephine Baker posters alongside Eiffel Tower postcards and used Dennis Lahane novels. “The new Paris is different,” says Felix Nono. He is selling old Paris. Cafes in Montparnasse and Montmartre come alive on painted tiles...
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A Visit to La Closerie des Lilas

August 3, 2010
A Visit to La Closerie des Lilas

The streets are tiny and quiet, lined by stately white buildings that resist time. Although the horses have been replaced by squat little Smarts and Fiats, these streets must look must the same as they did then, with flowers arranged neatly on tiny iron balconies beneath open white shutters. It’s dinnertime when we pass...
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Into the Arms of Europe

July 22, 2010
Into the Arms of Europe

Heather and stubby pines cover the shores of Royan, where narrow limestone cliff bands drop into the Atlantic and the mouth of the Gironde opens up to greet it. To me, the seagulls above are a sign of nearby ocean, but for Ernest Hemingway, 19 years old aboard the ship the Chicago, they were...
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